Monday, December 9, 2013

Top 10 Essentials for the Beginning Baker

I've had quite a few people in my kitchen in the last few months and I get a lot of questions about the tools and equipment that I have.  So, to keep you from collecting a junk drawer of useless stuff, or from desperately wishing you had a certain tool mid-recipe, I thought I'd share some of my favorites.

This first list is geared toward the beginning baker, or anyone who is just starting to build the foundations of their kitchen.  I'll be including a few other lists later this week for baking enthusiasts who've been around the oven a bit, and then finally a list for the advanced baker who has it all (but could benefit from a few extras).  Send this to any potential gift givers or go ahead and get something pretty for yourself! Check out the "Where to Shop" section after the list.  Here we go...


1. Mixing Bowls

Why? Most recipes will go much more smoothly if you have at least 2 bowls.
My recommendation: 2-4 stainless steel bowls.  Easy to clean, lightweight and sturdy.  Note:  You'll see glass bowls all over my blog, but that's only for better lighting in my photos.
Stay away from bowls with a spout or handle (totally pointless), and anti-slip bowls with rubber on the bottom (more annoying than helpful).
I'd buy: Stainless steel bowls from Sur La Table in at least the 3.5 and 4.5 qt sizes

2. Measuring Cups & Measuring Spoons

Why? If you want your baked goodies to consistently turn out well, measuring correctly with the right tool is paramount.  Dry measuring cups come in different sizes so the ingredients can be leveled off correctly.  Liquid measuring cups allow you to fill it to the correct measurement marker and then not spill it everywhere.
My recommendation: Plastic liquid and dry measuring cups (lightweight), and stainless steel measuring spoons (sturdy).
Stay away from adjustable spoons or cups, double-ended spoons (nice ideas in theory, but more annoying than useful), and dry measuring cups do not need a spout!
I own:
Dry: KitchenAid Classic Measuring Cup Set
Liquid: OXO Good Grips Angled Measuring Cup (2-cup)
Spoons: Stainless Steel Measuring Spoons from Sur La Table (a little pricey)
I'd buy:
Thunder Group Stainless Steel Measuring Spoons(reasonable price)

3. Half Sheet Baking Pans

Why? Rimmed, half sheet (13"x18") baking pans keep cookies (or roasted veggies) from sliding off the edge are perfect for layer cakes.  Plus they fit in all ovens.
My recommendation: 2-3 aluminum or stainless steel pans (half sheet size).
Stay away from anything textured (useless), non-stick (unnecessary), rimless (not versatile or safe), or insulated (unnecessary, just rotate your pan)
I own (and absolutely love): Nordic Ware Naturals Bakers Half Sheet

4. Silicone Spatula

Why? Versatile and effective mixing, scraping, and stirring tool.  Appropriate for high temperature situations on the stove.
My recommendation: Silicone head, wooden or plastic handle, both curved and straight sides.
Stay away from anything that isn't silicone, anything clear or white (not sturdy), anything too stiff.
I Own: Tovolo 12 Inch Silicone Spatula  (mine have wooden handles, and I bought them from Marshalls).


5. Whisk (aka Whip)

Why? Unfortunately not everything can be mixed with just a spatula.  Whipped cream, egg whites, and other liquid ingredients need a whisk to properly aerate or combine.  I have a few small whisks, but my go to is a single large 13"whisk.
My recommendation: 10-14" balloon-style whisk, with a sealed handle (easier to clean), and lots of thin, but strong wires (which are more effective at aerating).
Stay away from anything completed coated in silicone or nylon (not important), anything with really thick tines (too heavy and your arm will get tired fast), and anything too small (under 10 inches).
I'd buy: 
Winco Stainless Steel Piano Wire Whip, 12-Inch
or OXO Good Grips Balloon Whisk, 11-Inch

6. Rolling Pin

Why? Most beginning bakers will want this essential item for pie crusts and rolled cookies.
My recommendation: A wooden American (handles & ball bearings) or non-tapered French (one piece, solid wood) pin.  American is more traditional here, but French is easier to clean.  If you have doubts, go with the American.
Stay away from marble (heavy, expensive, unnecessary), fully tapered pins (useful but harder for beginners to use),
I own: A pin from Target.  Here's a similar one: Farberware Classic Wood Rolling Pin

7. Rasp-style Zester (aka Microplane)

Why? Perfect for zesting citrus, or grating fresh nutmeg, ginger, chocolate, and hard cheeses.
My recommendation: Microplane brand is the gold standard.  There are several styles, but I like the ones with a rubber handle and no plastic.
Stay away from non-rasp-style zesters (difficult to use).
I own: Microplane 46720 Premium Zester/Grater


8. Fine Mesh Sieve

Why? A multi-use tool that allows you to sift dry ingredients, strain custards, and gently wash delicate berries or herbs.
My recommendation: A sieve that's at least 6-8" in diameter, with fine mesh.
Stay away from mechanical sifters.  Bulky, hard to clean, and can only sift, as opposed to strain.
I own an older version of the OXO Good Grips 8-Inch Double Rod Strainer (very, very good quality, but a little pricey at ~$20)
I'd also buy: Winco 8" Single Fine Mesh Strainer (a very reasonable price)

 9. Bowl Scraper

Why? This is an awesome multi-purpose tool that helps you scrape batters and doughs out of bowls and helps you to safely and quickly and portion doughs.  It's also nice for scooping finely chopped veggies or herbs off your cutting board.
My recommendation: Plastic with a straight cutting edge and a rounded scraping edge.
Stay away from anything super stiff (won't be flexible enough to scrape out a bowl), and anything that costs more than $5 (it's a piece of flat plastic!)
I own the Ateco Bowl Scraper.  You can find it in stores at Sur La Table for $3.

10. Oven Mitts

Why? Relying on kitchen towels isn't always the safest way to remove hot items from the oven.
My recommendation: Two padded mitts, that cover most of the forearm, with a loop for hanging.
Stay away from silicone or thin pot holder-style (most people burn their wrists and arms), and the giant ones used for grilling outside labeled "flame retardant" (too big for regular use).
I own a pair from Target.  I've seen some very cute ones from Sur La Table, but I couldn't find a decent pair on Amazon that I liked.

Where to Shop:

You can find many of these items at discounted home goods stores like Marshalls for very reasonable prices.  For example, I like to buy my spatulas there for $2.  I've also found nice measuring cups and spoons, just remember that everything they sell is not necessarily useful (strawberry corer?).  If you don't have access to discount stores, Target and Macy's have great kitchen basics at reasonable prices.

I own many items from specialty kitchen stores like Sur La Table and Williams-Sonoma.  However, watch out for crazy prices.  I personally would not buy any small kitchen tool for more than $20 at one of these place unless 1) you have a gift card, or 2) you are in rush.  Same warning as above: that 3-in-one avocado tool is just as useless at these stores and more expensive.

Some of the items I own are no longer available, so I've included links to items that I researched as if I were buying them myself.  This means I've balanced perceived quality from reviews, cost and personal experience with similar items.  Keep personal preferences in mind!  For example, if a particular person has a retro-style kitchen, they may prefer colored glass bowls and brightly colored tools, others only like black and stainless steel.  I also could write an entire blog post on each of these items, but who has time for that!  My guidelines + your own good judgement = success.

So, if you have everything already on this list, then good for you.  You clearly have set yourself up for baking success.  Stay tuned for the next list coming later this week!

*Disclosure of Material Connection with Amazon: Some of the links in the post above are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission. Regardless, I only recommend products I have personally used (or similar) and believe will add value.

Thursday, December 5, 2013

The Revival of the Muffin: An Essay

The muffin has gone through an identity crisis.  As a little kid, I remember thinking about muffins in a very positive light.  Even if they didn't appear on your kitchen table, I bet you could've pictured them piled high in a woven basket, lined with patterned kitchen towel, studded generously with seasonal fruits.  They were a regular member of the breakfast and brunch archetype.  Who wouldn't want a fresh-from-the-oven small baked good, that boasted a combination of delicate sweetness, rusticity, nostalgia, and happiness?  Oh, how the muffin would eventually lose its way.

I can't tell you how many swim meets I saw those disgusting, gigantic, dense, warehouse store "muffins".  You know which ones I'm talking about.  They were about the size of your face, and they came in flavors like lemon poppyseed, chocolate, and banana nut.  Then coincidently, I remember hearing things like "muffins aren't good for you.  They have so much sugar and fat."  Well, that's because the commercial muffins around back then, were cake!  Not very good cake, but they were still cakes, not muffins.  Muffins are a quick bread, which traditionally means less fat and less sugar than cake (read more about the differences here).  I mean, I love cake, but wrapping it with a giant paper muffin wrapper and calling it breakfast doesn't mean you should eat a pound of it everyday.

If the late 90s ushered in the bastardization of the muffin, then the second stake in the muffin coffin (moffin?) was the similar-looking, but very distant cousin, the cupcake.  Without ranting for too long, I can at least acknowledge the majestic rise of the cupcake from elementary school birthday parties to tiered wedding displays.  Many thought: "Why would you ever want a muffin if you can have a cupcake?"  So many cake flavors, so many frostings, and so many combinations of the two.  The millennial expectation for a higher quality product, instant gratification, variety and indulgence, not just in food, but in everything, manifested itself perfectly in the cupcake.  Now that's a lot of pressure on one, tiny baked good.  Which explains why the cupcake supernova of the last decade inevitably collapsed into a black hole (just like frozen yogurt).  So, who should rise from this pile of metaphorical ashes and crumbs?  My nomination: the muffin.  

I'm not saying we should completely do away with cupcakes.  They are essentially a wonderful baked good, but perhaps a bit of withdrawal will help us appreciate them fully again.  I'm also not saying we should put the muffin on a pedestal, it's a muffin for crying out loud.  What I am saying, is that it's time you show the true muffin the respect it deserves.  If you need something easy, fast, portable, small, and customizable, then look no further.  It needs no special treatment or recognition, just a place at the table.


Cranberry Muffins
Note: This is an adaptation of Alton Brown's Old-School Muffin Recipe, from I'm Just Here for More Food


Ingredients:
Dry:
2 cups flour  (270g)
2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoons baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt

Wet:
1/2 cup of vegetable oil or melted butter (112g) [or a combination of the two]
3/4 cup sugar (150g) [go with 1/2 cup (100g) if using fruits that are sweet on their own]
2 eggs
3/4 cup plain yogurt, sour cream, or buttermilk (170g)  [I only had 1/2 cup of yogurt so I just topped it off with regular milk]
     
Mix-ins:
1 - 1 1/2 cups frozen or fresh cranberries (100-150g) [substitute other berries, sunflower seeds, chopped apple, etc.]

Tools: Large mixing bowl, medium mixing bowl, whisk, spatula, measuring cups or scale, measuring spoons, muffin tin

Directions:
0. Pre-heat oven to 350°F
1. Combine all dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl.  Whisk to combine.
2. Combine all wet ingredients in a medium mixing bowl.  Whisk to comine.
3. Pour wet ingredients into dry.  Using a spatula, gently mix batter until most of the flour is incorporated.  Do not over mix!  You still have to add the cranberries.

4. Add in the cranberries, mix just until they are distributed throughout the batter.
5. Spray muffin pan, or line with paper liners.  Portion muffin batter evenly.  The batter expands, but not as much as you'd think.  You can fill them almost all the way to the top.
6. Bake for 25-30 minutes, rotating after 10 minutes.  Muffins are done when the tops are lightly golden brown, and they spring back when touched.
7.  Allow them to cool by dislodging them from the pan.  Store in an airtight container at room temperature for 2-3 days.

The Verdict: A lovely, not-too-sweet and tart breakfast treat bursting with color.  I personally like less sweet breakfast items because then you have a good excuse for jam or lemon curd.  These muffins would also work well with diced apple or blueberries and peaches in summer (just reduce the sugar a bit).  You can even replace 1/2 of the flour with whole wheat for more texture.

Even if you don't get around to making a batch, I hope you see the muffin in a different light.  Enjoy!



Tuesday, November 26, 2013

Easy as Pie


It's going to be a busy week for most, and since some will be completely distracted with turkey, I figured I'd share an easy, classic pumpkin pie recipe to take some of the pressure off.  Pies can seem difficult because they can require items or ingredients that you don't normally have on hand (e.g., evaporated milk, pie tin, time), but I'm confident that you have most of what you need at home already.

Dilemma #1:  "I don't have a pie tin or plate."
Fix: Use any baking dish you have!  Most cake pans, square brownie pans, deep tart molds or small casserole dishes (8-9 inch diameter) will work.  Baking times may vary depending on the material (e.g., glass, metal, earthenware).

Dilemma #2:  "I don't want to use, or I don't have access to evaporated milk or condensed milk."
Fix: This is not a real problem, but most branded recipes that our parents used when we were younger call for this stuff.  I think it's just a way for the canned pumpkin folks to sell you a can of something else.  Use fresh cream, milk, soy milk, almond milk, or coconut milk, whatever you already have on hand.  If you have to go to the store anyway, go for the cream, then you can whip some up for an easy topping.

Dilemma #3:  "I don't have time on Thanksgiving."
Fix: The filling takes less than 5 minutes to measure and mix, no joke.  The crust will take a little longer, maybe 20-30 minutes of hands-on time.  It takes about 1 hour to bake and some time to cool.  Try making it the night before if you want really want to make it stress-free.  If you are too busy making the main course, ask someone else to make it!

Dilemma #4: "Pie crust is too difficult."
Fix:  First, practice makes perfect, but if you don't even want to attempt pie dough this Thanksgiving, make tart dough instead.  It's basically a very simple cookie dough where you mix together a few ingredients, chill for 20 minutes and then roll it out.  
Note: If you are going to use a cake pan, or any other straight-sided pan, I suggest making tart dough (recipe below) because it won't slip down the sides like pie crust can.  By the way, that's why pie tins and plates have sloped sides AND why you have to crimp the edges.
Dilemma #5: "I don't like pumpkin pie or I can't find pumpkin puree"
Fix: You are not alone. Make these whoopie pies instead or use sweet potato puree.

Don't have any baking dishes?  Borrow from a friend, that's what they are for

Ok, enough excuses, time to bake.

Tart Dough

Yield:  Three tart crusts, save two for Christmas

Notes: Although there are no photos of the mixing process it's similar to chocolate chip cookies: Mix butter and sugar, add egg, add dry ingredients.  Freeze any unused dough, well-wrapped in the freezer.

Ingredients:
1{       1 cup butter (225g, two sticks) 
           ½ cup sugar (100g)

2{       1 egg

3{       2 ½ cups flour (335g)
          ½ teaspoon salt

Tools: Mixer or wooden spoon, large mixing bowl, measuring cups or scale, measuring spoons, spatula, plastic wrap, rolling pin

Directions:
1. Mix butter and sugar in a bowl with a mixer or wooden spoon until homogenous.
2. Add egg and mix until homogenous. Use spatula to scrape down sides as needed.
3. Add flour and salt, and mix on low until dry flour is no longer visible.
4. Wrap dough in plastic wrap, form into a flat round disk, and chill in freezer for at least 20 minutes.  You can also store in the fridge overnight.
5.  Remove the dough from the freezer or refrigerator.  Divide the dough in to three, roughly even balls.  Wrap 2 in plastic and flatten into disks, freeze for later.  Using a rolling pin, roll out the remaining dough ball on a lightly floured counter top.  Rotate the dough every 3 to 4 passes with the pin, and make sure it does not stick.  Stop once the dough is 2 inches larger than the baking dish and roughly 1/8 inch thick.  Use the rolling pin, or quick cool hands, to move the crust to the baking dish.  If it tears slightly, just press it back together.  This dough is very forgiving, unlike pie dough.


6.  At this point, you can make the filling and bake, or wrap the crust in plastic and freeze.  No need to defrost before using.

Pumpkin Pie Filling
Yield: 1 pie

Notes: Preheat your oven to 425°F.  You will reduce the oven temperature after 15 minutes.  This high heat sets the crust at the beginning and then the lower heat allows the pumpkin custard to cook slowly and evenly.

Ingredients:
1 14 or 15-ounce can of pumpkin puree
2 eggs
1/2 cup cream [substitute milk, almond milk, soy milk, coconut milk]
1/4 cup brown sugar [white sugar is OK]
1/4 cup maple syrup [don't have this? double up on the brown sugar]
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg [substitute allspice, cloves or chinese five-spice]
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger [substitute yellow curry powder]
1/2 teaspoon salt

Tools: 1 Large mixing bowl, whisk, measuring cups, measuring spoons

Directions:
1. Measure all ingredients into large mixing bowl.  Whisk until smooth.

2. Pour into unbaked crust.  

3. Place pie in the oven and bake at 425°F for 15 minutes, rotating after 10 minutes.  Then reduce the oven temperature to 350°F, and continue baking for 30-45 minutes.  Pie is done when the filling has puffed slightly around the edges and the very center has a slight jiggle.  Don't be afraid of a little bit of jiggle, remember when it cools, it will firm up.  Do not leave the pie in the oven until it's completely solid, it will be too dry and will crack.  

4. Allow pie to cool for at least one hour at room temperature then move to the fridge for at least 3 hours.  Serve with whipped cream or ice cream.  

The Result: A traditional filling with an alternative crust.  It's not overly sweet, so it pairs well with sweetened whipped cream.  I find some people (e.g., my husband) crave the classics on Thanksgiving, so there are no frills here.  If you are looking for interesting garnishes try chocolate ganache sauce, finely minced candied ginger, toasted coconut (especially if you used coconut milk instead of cream) or toasted and chopped pecans.  Enjoy!

Don't forget, next time you need a tart or pie, you are all set with those two crusts in reserve.  Definitely something to be thankful for.  Happy Thanksgiving!


Tuesday, November 19, 2013

A Worthy Investment

Left to Right: Vanilla Bean & Seeds, Vanilla Extract, Vanilla Bean Paste, Powdered Vanilla, and Vanilla Sugar

It's very easy to take vanilla for granted, because it seems like it's in everything.  However, equating vanilla's ubiquity with flavor simplicity is a rookie mistake.  We've all glossed over it in recipes: 1 teaspoon here, 1/2 teaspoon there.  Can't I just leave it out if it's such a small amount?  Well, your vanilla-less baked good won't taste bad, but something will definitely be missing (it's called flavor), and that 1 teaspoon of delicious, aromatic complexity will be mocking you.  Vanilla is anything but plain!

Vanilla's powerful combination of sweet, spicy, and floral characteristics are strong enough to conjure up warm and fuzzy childhood memories, and delicate enough to successfully complement just about everything.  Given the powerful nature of this flavoring, I've always wanted to try and make vanilla extract myself.  As with anything in the pastry world, making it on your own teaches you to truly appreciate the end product, while developing your own tastes, preferences, and skills.  There are many articles and recipes online that discuss the procedure for making vanilla extract, but in the past I haven't been able to convince myself to spend the money on the vanilla beans themselves.  You've probably seen them in fancier grocery stores where they are selling two very dry beans for $8 to $12.  Seriously?  Not worth it.  So how did I finally convince myself to take the plunge?  I found out I could buy vanilla beansin bulk on amazon, along with some nice bottlesfor turning my extract into a nice holiday gift.

Now I've never made it before, so this is an experiment.  If you'd like to join in the fun, you can order your own beans.  Or if you are in Philly, I'll share my stash with you at cost.

Vanilla Extract Experiment: Day 1


I wish you could smell my apartment right now.  I just opened an eight ounce package of Madagascar Bourbon vanilla beans, and I could just sit next to it all day.  The aroma is intoxicating.

Ingredient Ratio:
6 vanilla beans (tahitian, bourbon madagascar, whatever you can get your hands on)
1 cup of vodka (80 proof)

Notes: Some recipes say as few as 3 beans (per cup of vodka) others as high as 8 beans, so I split the difference.  Also, the majority of recipes call for bottom shelf vodka since it's essentially flavorless, but you can use bourbon, or rum as well.

Tools & Equipment: Clean bottle or jar with lid, measuring cup, knife, and a cutting board.

Directions:
1) Split vanilla beans in half the long way with a knife on a cutting board lined with parchment paper.  Parchment will keep the beans from staining your cutting board.  Some recipes recommend scraping the black flavorful paste out of the bean, but I'm going to skip this step.  The little seeds should come out on their own, and scraping the beans can get very messy.

2)  Big batch: If you have a brand new bottle of vodka, you can steep the extract in the bottle itself, but you'll have to remove about 1/2 cup to make some room for the beans.  For a one liter bottle of vodka add 24 split beans.  For a 750ml bottle of vodka add 17 split beans.


Small batch: Pour 1-2 cups of vodka into a small jar or bottle, and insert 6 split vanilla beans for every cup of vodka.  You may want to cut them in half so that they will remain submerged.




3) Now the hard part: Waiting.  Some recipes say shake the bottle everyday for the first week and then occasionally for 3 weeks after.  This seems like overkill and is probably the product of impatience.  I'll probably just gently swirl the extract every week.  Also, since these are delicate and volatile flavors we are extracting, it's best to keep the bottles in a dark place, so the sun doesn't affect the process.

Since I have a relatively high ratio of beans to vodka mine should be ready to use in one month with full strength at about 6 weeks, but I'll post any notable changes in color or aroma in the meantime.  Once it's ready, I'll decant it into smaller bottles for gifts.  Check back here to see what it looks like after a few days...Now go forth and extract!