Summer Photo Round-Up

My home turf: Davis, California

It doesn't seem like I've done much in the six weeks since moving back to California, but the mountain of food photos I've taken tells a much different story. Living in Philly this past year has taught me to look at the California produce I grew up with in a completely different light, and now I just cannot put the camera down. Rather than long recipes, I've included some simple guidelines that hopefully will inspire you to search for great produce and eat well. Also, big thanks to my mom & uncle for growing most of the spectacular vegetables seen below.

Want something easy? Dip raw veggies into delicious hummus, guacamole, or baba ganoush.

Tons of tomatoes? Cut small ones in half, larger ones in wedges, and placing them on a sheet tray. Dress with olive oil, salt, and herbs, and roast until they look like a juicy sun-dried tomato. These are awesome on pasta and sandwiches.

Don't like using the oven often? Increase efficiency and roast a few beets in foil with olive oil and salt when you are roasting/baking something else. Peel by rubbing with a towel and dress with thyme or basil, and lemon juice.

Fortunate enough to find berries and stone fruit? Toss with a little sugar and lemon juice, and cook it down to create a delicious chunky preserve or jam. Enjoy your delicious spread with any baked good, ice cream, or granola and yogurt.

Bounty of fresh vegetables? 

Coat in herbed olive oil and throw on the grill. If you don't have a grill, just saute and/or broil.

Have some delicious bread on hand? Make an open-face sandwich or bruschetta with

herbed goat cheese and peppers, avocado/tomato/corn, or in this case, salted butter and radishes.

 There are still a few weeks left in summer, so hurry up and take advantage! I know I will.

When life gives you Meyer lemons...

Daffodils in my mom's backyard.  Spring is here!

Classes kept me too busy to write much last month, but I'm determined to share a little bit about my recent trip back to California before spring break.  It was one of those whirlwind trips home, where you try to see everybody and do everything in less than a week.  Most of the time, the massive coordination effort ends in complete exhaustion, but I managed to fit in some great time with family, friends, and food. Although it wasn't perfectly sunny and 70 degrees, I was happy enough to escape the polar vortex and enjoy the much needed rain that drought-stricken California needs.

Meyer Lemons are thought to be a hybrid between a regular lemon and mandarin or regular orange

One of my stops was with my friend Liz who has a Meyer lemon tree in her front yard.  This prized lemon variety is thin-skinned, sweet, and incredibly fragrant.  Her tree was bearing a ton of fruit, so we made a few test batches of lemon pudding cakes.  No clear cake winner, but fortunately I left with a lot of lemons!  My usual go-to recipe when I have wonderful lemons on hand is lemon curd, but I didn't want to end up with extra egg whites.  Then I thought about cookies, but they tend to rely on zest only, and I didn't want a bunch of naked lemons.  Finally I remembered a dessert I saw on youtube a long time ago that I've always wanted to try: Lemon Posset.

Posset is a British drink made of spiced milk coagulated with ale or wine (don't be scared, just keep reading), and has roots back to medieval times (wiki).  The modern dessert is made with heavy cream that's sweetened with sugar and thickened with lemon juice.  Similar to fresh cheeses like ricotta, heat and acid are used to gently coagulate the cream.  After chilling for a few hours, the creamy custard sets up like a cross between panna cotta and pudding, but without eggs, gelatin, or cornstarch.  To say it's a magical transformation is an understatement.  I found a recipe from Bon Appetit that was simple and looked delicious.  I've adapted it slightly to scale the servings down, focus on Meyer lemons, and bring out more flavor using zest.

Meyer Lemon Posset
Serves 2
Adapted from Bon Appetit

Ingredients:
3/4 cup heavy cream [avoid using ultra-pasteurized]
1/4 cup sugar
Zest of 1 lemon

1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons Meyer lemon juice (about 1 large lemon)

If you don't have Meyer lemons, you can use regular fresh lemon juice
and substitute in 1 teaspoon of fresh orange juice, or mix lemon and
lime juice like the original Bon Appetit recipe.

Directions:
1. Pour cream and sugar into small saucepan.  Zest lemon directly into pot with cream and sugar.
2. Move saucepan to stove, and heat cream until it reaches a gentle simmer.  Maintain a gentle simmer and continue to cook for three minutes while stirring continuously with a spatula.  Make sure to scrape the bottom of the pot so nothing burns.
3. After three minutes, remove the pot from the heat, and add the lemon juice.  Stir until fully incorporated.  You'll notice the cream thicken to the consistency of a thin pudding.

4.  For a smoother custard, strain out the zest.  Then allow the posset to cool for ~10 minutes.

You don't need to strain the zest,
 but it will have a much smoother texture if you do.

5.  After cooling, pour posset in to individual serving glasses or dishes, if you have them.  Alternatively, you can pour it into a large container and scoop to serve.  Allow the posset to thicken for at least 4 hours, before serving.

If you'd like to make the lemon chips, 
see update below.

Verdict:  This is so simple, there is no reason NOT to make this.  I've tried to focus on the Meyer lemon flavor, but you could add vanilla extract, or berries, especially if you only have regular lemons.  After a few times, you could also experiment with the amount of lemon juice for a harder or softer set custard.  You may also get away with substituting in a little milk, but this won't work without some cream.

When life gives you Meyer lemons make Meyer lemon posset... I know, not as catchy as the original, but it's definitely better than lemonade.

UPDATE: If you are good with a sharp serrated knife or a mandolin, you can easily make lemon chips.  These are a nice flavor and texture contrast to the possets: slightly bitter and crispy (or chewy).

Note: These can take awhile to dry in the oven.  So if you find you need to move on to something else, just turn your oven off and leave the chips to dry overnight.  Check in the morning and continue to bake if needed. 

Directions:

1. Slice 1 lemon as thinly as possible while still slicing evenly, and add to a small saucepan with 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water.  

2. Gently bring to a boil over medium low heat.  Once the syrup begins to boil, lower your heat to a simmer and allow lemon slices to cook gently for 5 minutes.  Turn off the heat and allow slices to cool for ~5 minutes.  

3. Remove slices from syrup and drain using a colander or sieve (not shown).  Place slices in a single layer on a silicone baking mat (parchment paper should work if your slices are well drained).  

4. Place mat, or paper, with slices on a baking sheet and place in a 200F oven to dry for 2.5-3.5 hours.  After about 1.5-2 hours peel off the chips, and flip them over to completely dry them.  If you have a convection setting this will take about 1 hour (flip after 45 minutes).

5.  To test if they are done, remove a chip and allow it cool to room temperature to test the finished texture (if you try and eat it while it is warm, it will always be chewy).  I like them mostly crispy with a little chew.

The Revival of the Muffin: An Essay

The muffin has gone through an identity crisis.  As a little kid, I remember thinking about muffins in a very positive light.  Even if they didn't appear on your kitchen table, I bet you could've pictured them piled high in a woven basket, lined with patterned kitchen towel, studded generously with seasonal fruits.  They were a regular member of the breakfast and brunch archetype.  Who wouldn't want a fresh-from-the-oven small baked good, that boasted a combination of delicate sweetness, rusticity, nostalgia, and happiness?  Oh, how the muffin would eventually lose its way.

I can't tell you how many swim meets I saw those disgusting, gigantic, dense, warehouse store "muffins".  You know which ones I'm talking about.  They were about the size of your face, and they came in flavors like lemon poppyseed, chocolate, and banana nut.  Then coincidently, I remember hearing things like "muffins aren't good for you.  They have so much sugar and fat."  Well, that's because the commercial muffins around back then, were cake!  Not very good cake, but they were still cakes, not muffins.  Muffins are a quick bread, which traditionally means less fat and less sugar than cake (read more about the differences here).  I mean, I love cake, but wrapping it with a giant paper muffin wrapper and calling it breakfast doesn't mean you should eat a pound of it everyday.

If the late 90s ushered in the bastardization of the muffin, then the second stake in the muffin coffin (moffin?) was the similar-looking, but very distant cousin, the cupcake.  Without ranting for too long, I can at least acknowledge the majestic rise of the cupcake from elementary school birthday parties to tiered wedding displays.  Many thought: "Why would you ever want a muffin if you can have a cupcake?"  So many cake flavors, so many frostings, and so many combinations of the two.  The millennial expectation for a higher quality product, instant gratification, variety and indulgence, not just in food, but in everything, manifested itself perfectly in the cupcake.  Now that's a lot of pressure on one, tiny baked good.  Which explains why the cupcake supernova of the last decade inevitably collapsed into a black hole (just like frozen yogurt).  So, who should rise from this pile of metaphorical ashes and crumbs?  My nomination: the muffin.  

I'm not saying we should completely do away with cupcakes.  They are essentially a wonderful baked good, but perhaps a bit of withdrawal will help us appreciate them fully again.  I'm also not saying we should put the muffin on a pedestal, it's a muffin for crying out loud.  What I am saying, is that it's time you show the true muffin the respect it deserves.  If you need something easy, fast, portable, small, and customizable, then look no further.  It needs no special treatment or recognition, just a place at the table.

Cranberry Muffins

Note: This is an adaptation of Alton Brown's Old-School Muffin Recipe, from I'm Just Here for More Food

Ingredients:

Dry:

2 cups flour  (270g)

2 teaspoons baking powder

3/4 teaspoons baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

Wet:
1/2 cup of vegetable oil or melted butter (112g) [or a combination of the two]
3/4 cup sugar (150g) [go with 1/2 cup (100g) if using fruits that are sweet on their own]

2 eggs

3/4 cup plain yogurt, sour cream, or buttermilk (170g)  [I only had 1/2 cup of yogurt so I just topped it off with regular milk]

     

Mix-ins:

1 - 1 1/2 cups frozen or fresh cranberries (100-150g) [substitute other berries, sunflower seeds, chopped apple, etc.]

Tools: Large mixing bowl, medium mixing bowl, whisk, spatula, measuring cups or scale, measuring spoons, muffin tin

Directions:

0. Pre-heat oven to 350°F

1. Combine all dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl.  Whisk to combine.

2. Combine all wet ingredients in a medium mixing bowl.  Whisk to comine.

3. Pour wet ingredients into dry.  Using a spatula, gently mix batter until most of the flour is incorporated.  Do not over mix!  You still have to add the cranberries.

4. Add in the cranberries, mix just until they are distributed throughout the batter.

5. Spray muffin pan, or line with paper liners.  Portion muffin batter evenly.  The batter expands, but not as much as you'd think.  You can fill them almost all the way to the top.

6. Bake for 25-30 minutes, rotating after 10 minutes.  Muffins are done when the tops are lightly golden brown, and they spring back when touched.

7.  Allow them to cool by dislodging them from the pan.  Store in an airtight container at room temperature for 2-3 days.

The Verdict: A lovely, not-too-sweet and tart breakfast treat bursting with color.  I personally like less sweet breakfast items because then you have a good excuse for jam or lemon curd.  These muffins would also work well with diced apple or blueberries and peaches in summer (just reduce the sugar a bit).  You can even replace 1/2 of the flour with whole wheat for more texture.

Even if you don't get around to making a batch, I hope you see the muffin in a different light.  Enjoy!

Soup Soulmate

Ok, I'll admit it, I got lazy on the blog front last week.  However, it was only because I was so busy in the kitchen.  With what exactly?  Let's just say, I don't want to see any cookies for awhile.  For maybe, like, a whole week.

Anyway, fall is definitely in full swing, and I absolutely love it.  I put the upstairs fan away, I've taken the blankets out of the closet, and I'm wearing fuzzy slippers.  It's also just cool enough to take the big stock pot out of the cupboard to make soup.  I love making soup and eating soup.  So comforting, so easy, it's like a nice, warm, food hug.

To complement a good soup, I like a nice hunk of bread.  Maybe even a slice of baguette, a wedge of corn bread, or at the very least a handful of those little oyster crackers.  Maybe even a savory scone?  With corn, bacon, and cheese?  Uh, yes.  Now, please.

Cilantro, roasted corn, thyme, applewood smoked bacon.
This is what I had in my freezer and fridge this morning...use what you have.

I was inspired by a party I attended down in DC this past weekend hosted by my college roommate for her husband.  On the menu were those mini quiche hors d'oeuvres.  Damn, they are so cute!  What's not to love about cheese, bacon, and a few herbs?  Ok, now put it all into a tender scone.  Now there's even more love to go around.

Savory Scones
Yield: 8 scones

Notes: You can freeze well-wrapped, unbaked scones in the freezer up to 1 month.  No need to thaw before baking.

Ingredients:

1 ½ cups AP flour (200g)

¼ cup cornmeal (30g) [if you don't have this, just substitute in an extra ¼ cup flour]

4 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon sugar

¾ teaspoon salt

5 tablespoons butter (75g)

½ cup cheese (30g)

¼ cup corn [mine was roasted and frozen]
¼ cup cooked bacon, chopped [maybe sausage, or ham?]
1 tablespoon assorted herbs, chopped [thyme, green onions, cilantro, sage]

¾ cup cream + 2 tablespoons (200g)

Tools: Large mixing bowl, measuring cups or scale, measuring spoon, spatula, knife, baking sheet pan

Method:

1. Combine all dry ingredients (flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar and salt) in a bowl

2. Use your fingertips to break up the butter into small pieces. Stop once the largest pieces of butter are pea-sized.

Before.

After:
Small pieces of butter are ideal.
Just no gigantic chunks, please.

3. Add in any extras, including cheese, corn, bacon, herbs.

I used Dubliner from Kerrygold, but any cheese will work.
[Thanks for the suggestion Mark!]

4. Pour cream into butter and flour mixture.  Mix with a spatula or wooden spoon just until combined. Dough should look very shaggy.

5. Shape dough into a disk by pressing firmly and cut into wedges

Don't be scared, shaggy is good!

Using your hands, press it into shape.
Pretend you are playing in the sand, and get your hands dirty!

Cut with a sharp knife.

6. Bake at 375°F until golden brown, about 20-25 minutes, rotating after 10 minutes.

The Result: A flavorful, and buttery sidekick to soups everywhere.  A nice stand in for biscuits.  Slice and heat leftovers, for an awesome breakfast sandwich.  Remember, use what you have already in your kitchen.  Sharp cheddar and pickled jalapenos.  Gruyere and ham.  Get hungry and creative.

Autumn is coming.

As a kid, I remember seeing seasonal school calendars, and noticing that September was always lumped in with the autumn months.  The month of September was typically represented by a back-to-school image, which made sense, but the accompanying theme of falling leaves did not.  The first month of school back in Davis, CA was often plagued by near 100°F days, not giant piles of leaves.  I know that this extended summer is not the norm everywhere, but I was still surprised by the weather change here in Philly this month.  It is noticeably colder at night, and the uncomfortable humidity makes only occasional appearances now.  Don't get me wrong, I like this cooler weather.  It reminds me of what San Francisco is like most of the year, but I was finally starting to enjoy the warmer nights.

To pay homage to this transitional month, I'm using a seasonal fall ingredient to salute the last few weeks of warm weather:

The Grape

When people discuss favorite seasonal ingredients, grapes are almost always overlooked.  Grapes, like apples and oranges, are ALWAYS at the grocery store.  This promotes the false notion that they do not have a domestic or local season, but they do!  Like anything found during their prime harvest time, they will taste better, look nicer, and cost less.  Side note: Bananas also hang around all year in our produce markets, but they are tropical and therefore don't have a season.   What gets shipped to us isn't the most exciting, most delicious, banana specimen out there....but that's another post for another time.

For grapes, we are entering the peak of the season.  Grapes are harvested from July to December, and although we may only think of red and green (typically both Thomson Seedless hybrids), there are many varieties to eat, just think of all the wine varietals.  Other familiar eating varieties include the Concord (the best "baking" grape), the similarly coveted Korean Kyoho, and hundreds of others, including hybrids such as the Thomcord (a seedless cross between the green Thomson and Concord).  Ok, before I go food-nerd crazy on more grape varieties (grape nuts? Sorry...), let's get to the recipe!

Recipe: Fresh Grape Granita

Ingredients:
1 pound seedless Grapes, any variety.
Depending on your grapes:
1-2 tablespoons water
1-2 teaspoons lemon juice
1-2 teaspoons sugar
1-2 tablespoons wine (like Muscat) or liqueur (St. Germain)

Tools: Blender, fork, metal pan

Method:
1. Wash grapes, remove from stem.
2. Place grapes in a blender.  Blend for 3-4 minutes until smooth.  If you want less pulp, you could strain it at this point, but I like it a little thicker.

These grapes look like giant cranberries here...

At first you'll think "this is going to have lots of grape skin that I'll need to strain out",
but just keep it going at a medium-low speed, and it will be fine.

3.  Taste the grape mixture.  If you are using typical table grapes, as I have, your grapes are probably super sweet.  Add at least 3 tablespoons of water and 2 teaspoons of lemon juice.  If your grapes are a specialty or heirloom variety that is not overly sweet, but full of flavor and color, start with just 1 tablespoon of water and 1 teaspoon of lemon juice.  After making any additions, taste and reevaluate.  Keep in mind that when frozen, flavors are slightly muted, so don't dilute the natural flavor too much.
4.  Once you are done tasting, pour juice into a shallow metal dish or pan, and place in the freezer.
5.  Once the grape juice is completely frozen, which takes at least 5 hours (overnight is easiest), scrape it into crystals with a fork.  That's it!
6.  Re-scrape and fluff with a fork before serving in chilled bowls or glasses.  If you are going to wait a few days to serve, be sure to cover it with plastic.

Sliced grapes are surprisingly beautiful! 

The Result: A sweet, icy treat that will please just about everyone.  A perfect ending to a filling and rich meal.  Serve with fresh grapes (a contrasting color or flavor would be a nice touch), or pour sparkling wine or soda to make a refreshing and sophisticated slushy.

So this granita is for you, September, enjoy the treat!  Now if you could tell October and November to play nice, I'd really appreciate it.