Showing posts with label custard. Show all posts
Showing posts with label custard. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 5, 2014

When life gives you Meyer lemons...

Daffodils in my mom's backyard.  Spring is here!
Classes kept me too busy to write much last month, but I'm determined to share a little bit about my recent trip back to California before spring break.  It was one of those whirlwind trips home, where you try to see everybody and do everything in less than a week.  Most of the time, the massive coordination effort ends in complete exhaustion, but I managed to fit in some great time with family, friends, and food. Although it wasn't perfectly sunny and 70 degrees, I was happy enough to escape the polar vortex and enjoy the much needed rain that drought-stricken California needs.
Meyer Lemons are thought to be a hybrid between a regular lemon and mandarin or regular orange
One of my stops was with my friend Liz who has a Meyer lemon tree in her front yard.  This prized lemon variety is thin-skinned, sweet, and incredibly fragrant.  Her tree was bearing a ton of fruit, so we made a few test batches of lemon pudding cakes.  No clear cake winner, but fortunately I left with a lot of lemons!  My usual go-to recipe when I have wonderful lemons on hand is lemon curd, but I didn't want to end up with extra egg whites.  Then I thought about cookies, but they tend to rely on zest only, and I didn't want a bunch of naked lemons.  Finally I remembered a dessert I saw on youtube a long time ago that I've always wanted to try: Lemon Posset.


Posset is a British drink made of spiced milk coagulated with ale or wine (don't be scared, just keep reading), and has roots back to medieval times (wiki).  The modern dessert is made with heavy cream that's sweetened with sugar and thickened with lemon juice.  Similar to fresh cheeses like ricotta, heat and acid are used to gently coagulate the cream.  After chilling for a few hours, the creamy custard sets up like a cross between panna cotta and pudding, but without eggs, gelatin, or cornstarch.  To say it's a magical transformation is an understatement.  I found a recipe from Bon Appetit that was simple and looked delicious.  I've adapted it slightly to scale the servings down, focus on Meyer lemons, and bring out more flavor using zest.

Meyer Lemon Posset
Serves 2
Adapted from Bon Appetit

Ingredients:
3/4 cup heavy cream [avoid using ultra-pasteurized]
1/4 cup sugar
Zest of 1 lemon

1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons Meyer lemon juice (about 1 large lemon)
If you don't have Meyer lemons, you can use regular fresh lemon juice
and substitute in 1 teaspoon of fresh orange juice, or mix lemon and
lime juice like the original Bon Appetit recipe.

Directions:
1. Pour cream and sugar into small saucepan.  Zest lemon directly into pot with cream and sugar.
2. Move saucepan to stove, and heat cream until it reaches a gentle simmer.  Maintain a gentle simmer and continue to cook for three minutes while stirring continuously with a spatula.  Make sure to scrape the bottom of the pot so nothing burns.
3. After three minutes, remove the pot from the heat, and add the lemon juice.  Stir until fully incorporated.  You'll notice the cream thicken to the consistency of a thin pudding.


4.  For a smoother custard, strain out the zest.  Then allow the posset to cool for ~10 minutes.
You don't need to strain the zest,
 but it will have a much smoother texture if you do.
5.  After cooling, pour posset in to individual serving glasses or dishes, if you have them.  Alternatively, you can pour it into a large container and scoop to serve.  Allow the posset to thicken for at least 4 hours, before serving.

If you'd like to make the lemon chips, 
see update below.

Verdict:  This is so simple, there is no reason NOT to make this.  I've tried to focus on the Meyer lemon flavor, but you could add vanilla extract, or berries, especially if you only have regular lemons.  After a few times, you could also experiment with the amount of lemon juice for a harder or softer set custard.  You may also get away with substituting in a little milk, but this won't work without some cream.

When life gives you Meyer lemons make Meyer lemon posset... I know, not as catchy as the original, but it's definitely better than lemonade.

UPDATE: If you are good with a sharp serrated knife or a mandolin, you can easily make lemon chips.  These are a nice flavor and texture contrast to the possets: slightly bitter and crispy (or chewy).

Note: These can take awhile to dry in the oven.  So if you find you need to move on to something else, just turn your oven off and leave the chips to dry overnight.  Check in the morning and continue to bake if needed. 

Directions:
1. Slice 1 lemon as thinly as possible while still slicing evenly, and add to a small saucepan with 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water.  
2. Gently bring to a boil over medium low heat.  Once the syrup begins to boil, lower your heat to a simmer and allow lemon slices to cook gently for 5 minutes.  Turn off the heat and allow slices to cool for ~5 minutes.  
3. Remove slices from syrup and drain using a colander or sieve (not shown).  Place slices in a single layer on a silicone baking mat (parchment paper should work if your slices are well drained).  
4. Place mat, or paper, with slices on a baking sheet and place in a 200F oven to dry for 2.5-3.5 hours.  After about 1.5-2 hours peel off the chips, and flip them over to completely dry them.  If you have a convection setting this will take about 1 hour (flip after 45 minutes).
5.  To test if they are done, remove a chip and allow it cool to room temperature to test the finished texture (if you try and eat it while it is warm, it will always be chewy).  I like them mostly crispy with a little chew.







Tuesday, November 26, 2013

Easy as Pie


It's going to be a busy week for most, and since some will be completely distracted with turkey, I figured I'd share an easy, classic pumpkin pie recipe to take some of the pressure off.  Pies can seem difficult because they can require items or ingredients that you don't normally have on hand (e.g., evaporated milk, pie tin, time), but I'm confident that you have most of what you need at home already.

Dilemma #1:  "I don't have a pie tin or plate."
Fix: Use any baking dish you have!  Most cake pans, square brownie pans, deep tart molds or small casserole dishes (8-9 inch diameter) will work.  Baking times may vary depending on the material (e.g., glass, metal, earthenware).

Dilemma #2:  "I don't want to use, or I don't have access to evaporated milk or condensed milk."
Fix: This is not a real problem, but most branded recipes that our parents used when we were younger call for this stuff.  I think it's just a way for the canned pumpkin folks to sell you a can of something else.  Use fresh cream, milk, soy milk, almond milk, or coconut milk, whatever you already have on hand.  If you have to go to the store anyway, go for the cream, then you can whip some up for an easy topping.

Dilemma #3:  "I don't have time on Thanksgiving."
Fix: The filling takes less than 5 minutes to measure and mix, no joke.  The crust will take a little longer, maybe 20-30 minutes of hands-on time.  It takes about 1 hour to bake and some time to cool.  Try making it the night before if you want really want to make it stress-free.  If you are too busy making the main course, ask someone else to make it!

Dilemma #4: "Pie crust is too difficult."
Fix:  First, practice makes perfect, but if you don't even want to attempt pie dough this Thanksgiving, make tart dough instead.  It's basically a very simple cookie dough where you mix together a few ingredients, chill for 20 minutes and then roll it out.  
Note: If you are going to use a cake pan, or any other straight-sided pan, I suggest making tart dough (recipe below) because it won't slip down the sides like pie crust can.  By the way, that's why pie tins and plates have sloped sides AND why you have to crimp the edges.
Dilemma #5: "I don't like pumpkin pie or I can't find pumpkin puree"
Fix: You are not alone. Make these whoopie pies instead or use sweet potato puree.

Don't have any baking dishes?  Borrow from a friend, that's what they are for

Ok, enough excuses, time to bake.

Tart Dough

Yield:  Three tart crusts, save two for Christmas

Notes: Although there are no photos of the mixing process it's similar to chocolate chip cookies: Mix butter and sugar, add egg, add dry ingredients.  Freeze any unused dough, well-wrapped in the freezer.

Ingredients:
1{       1 cup butter (225g, two sticks) 
           ½ cup sugar (100g)

2{       1 egg

3{       2 ½ cups flour (335g)
          ½ teaspoon salt

Tools: Mixer or wooden spoon, large mixing bowl, measuring cups or scale, measuring spoons, spatula, plastic wrap, rolling pin

Directions:
1. Mix butter and sugar in a bowl with a mixer or wooden spoon until homogenous.
2. Add egg and mix until homogenous. Use spatula to scrape down sides as needed.
3. Add flour and salt, and mix on low until dry flour is no longer visible.
4. Wrap dough in plastic wrap, form into a flat round disk, and chill in freezer for at least 20 minutes.  You can also store in the fridge overnight.
5.  Remove the dough from the freezer or refrigerator.  Divide the dough in to three, roughly even balls.  Wrap 2 in plastic and flatten into disks, freeze for later.  Using a rolling pin, roll out the remaining dough ball on a lightly floured counter top.  Rotate the dough every 3 to 4 passes with the pin, and make sure it does not stick.  Stop once the dough is 2 inches larger than the baking dish and roughly 1/8 inch thick.  Use the rolling pin, or quick cool hands, to move the crust to the baking dish.  If it tears slightly, just press it back together.  This dough is very forgiving, unlike pie dough.


6.  At this point, you can make the filling and bake, or wrap the crust in plastic and freeze.  No need to defrost before using.

Pumpkin Pie Filling
Yield: 1 pie

Notes: Preheat your oven to 425°F.  You will reduce the oven temperature after 15 minutes.  This high heat sets the crust at the beginning and then the lower heat allows the pumpkin custard to cook slowly and evenly.

Ingredients:
1 14 or 15-ounce can of pumpkin puree
2 eggs
1/2 cup cream [substitute milk, almond milk, soy milk, coconut milk]
1/4 cup brown sugar [white sugar is OK]
1/4 cup maple syrup [don't have this? double up on the brown sugar]
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg [substitute allspice, cloves or chinese five-spice]
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger [substitute yellow curry powder]
1/2 teaspoon salt

Tools: 1 Large mixing bowl, whisk, measuring cups, measuring spoons

Directions:
1. Measure all ingredients into large mixing bowl.  Whisk until smooth.

2. Pour into unbaked crust.  

3. Place pie in the oven and bake at 425°F for 15 minutes, rotating after 10 minutes.  Then reduce the oven temperature to 350°F, and continue baking for 30-45 minutes.  Pie is done when the filling has puffed slightly around the edges and the very center has a slight jiggle.  Don't be afraid of a little bit of jiggle, remember when it cools, it will firm up.  Do not leave the pie in the oven until it's completely solid, it will be too dry and will crack.  

4. Allow pie to cool for at least one hour at room temperature then move to the fridge for at least 3 hours.  Serve with whipped cream or ice cream.  

The Result: A traditional filling with an alternative crust.  It's not overly sweet, so it pairs well with sweetened whipped cream.  I find some people (e.g., my husband) crave the classics on Thanksgiving, so there are no frills here.  If you are looking for interesting garnishes try chocolate ganache sauce, finely minced candied ginger, toasted coconut (especially if you used coconut milk instead of cream) or toasted and chopped pecans.  Enjoy!

Don't forget, next time you need a tart or pie, you are all set with those two crusts in reserve.  Definitely something to be thankful for.  Happy Thanksgiving!