Easy as Pie

It's going to be a busy week for most, and since some will be completely distracted with turkey, I figured I'd share an easy, classic pumpkin pie recipe to take some of the pressure off.  Pies can seem difficult because they can require items or ingredients that you don't normally have on hand (e.g., evaporated milk, pie tin, time), but I'm confident that you have most of what you need at home already.

Dilemma #1:  "I don't have a pie tin or plate."

Fix: Use any baking dish you have!  Most cake pans, square brownie pans, deep tart molds or small casserole dishes (8-9 inch diameter) will work.  Baking times may vary depending on the material (e.g., glass, metal, earthenware).

Dilemma #2:  "I don't want to use, or I don't have access to evaporated milk or condensed milk."

Fix: This is not a real problem, but most branded recipes that our parents used when we were younger call for this stuff.  I think it's just a way for the canned pumpkin folks to sell you a can of something else.  Use fresh cream, milk, soy milk, almond milk, or coconut milk, whatever you already have on hand.  If you have to go to the store anyway, go for the cream, then you can whip some up for an easy topping.

Dilemma #3:  "I don't have time on Thanksgiving."

Fix: The filling takes less than 5 minutes to measure and mix, no joke.  The crust will take a little longer, maybe 20-30 minutes of hands-on time.  It takes about 1 hour to bake and some time to cool.  Try making it the night before if you want really want to make it stress-free.  If you are too busy making the main course, ask someone else to make it!

Dilemma #4: "Pie crust is too difficult."

Fix:  First, practice makes perfect, but if you don't even want to attempt pie dough this Thanksgiving, make tart dough instead.  It's basically a very simple cookie dough where you mix together a few ingredients, chill for 20 minutes and then roll it out.  

Note: If you are going to use a cake pan, or any other straight-sided pan, I suggest making tart dough (recipe below) because it won't slip down the sides like pie crust can.  By the way, that's why pie tins and plates have sloped sides AND why you have to crimp the edges.

Dilemma #5: "I don't like pumpkin pie or I can't find pumpkin puree"

Fix: You are not alone. Make these whoopie pies instead or use sweet potato puree.

Don't have any baking dishes?  Borrow from a friend, that's what they are for

Ok, enough excuses, time to bake.

Tart Dough

Yield:  Three tart crusts, save two for Christmas

Notes: Although there are no photos of the mixing process it's similar to chocolate chip cookies: Mix butter and sugar, add egg, add dry ingredients.  Freeze any unused dough, well-wrapped in the freezer.

Ingredients:

1{       1 cup butter (225g, two sticks) 

           ½ cup sugar (100g)

2{       1 egg

3{       2 ½ cups flour (335g)
          ½ teaspoon salt

Tools: Mixer or wooden spoon, large mixing bowl, measuring cups or scale, measuring spoons, spatula, plastic wrap, rolling pin

Directions:
1. Mix butter and sugar in a bowl with a mixer or wooden spoon until homogenous.
2. Add egg and mix until homogenous. Use spatula to scrape down sides as needed.
3. Add flour and salt, and mix on low until dry flour is no longer visible.
4. Wrap dough in plastic wrap, form into a flat round disk, and chill in freezer for at least 20 minutes.  You can also store in the fridge overnight.
5.  Remove the dough from the freezer or refrigerator.  Divide the dough in to three, roughly even balls.  Wrap 2 in plastic and flatten into disks, freeze for later.  Using a rolling pin, roll out the remaining dough ball on a lightly floured counter top.  Rotate the dough every 3 to 4 passes with the pin, and make sure it does not stick.  Stop once the dough is 2 inches larger than the baking dish and roughly 1/8 inch thick.  Use the rolling pin, or quick cool hands, to move the crust to the baking dish.  If it tears slightly, just press it back together.  This dough is very forgiving, unlike pie dough.

6.  At this point, you can make the filling and bake, or wrap the crust in plastic and freeze.  No need to defrost before using.

Pumpkin Pie Filling

Yield: 1 pie

Notes: Preheat your oven to 425°F.  You will reduce the oven temperature after 15 minutes.  This high heat sets the crust at the beginning and then the lower heat allows the pumpkin custard to cook slowly and evenly.

Ingredients:

1 14 or 15-ounce can of pumpkin puree

2 eggs

1/2 cup cream [substitute milk, almond milk, soy milk, coconut milk]

1/4 cup brown sugar [white sugar is OK]

1/4 cup maple syrup [don't have this? double up on the brown sugar]

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg [substitute allspice, cloves or chinese five-spice]

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger [substitute yellow curry powder]

1/2 teaspoon salt

Tools: 1 Large mixing bowl, whisk, measuring cups, measuring spoons

Directions:

1. Measure all ingredients into large mixing bowl.  Whisk until smooth.

2. Pour into unbaked crust.  

3. Place pie in the oven and bake at 425°F for 15 minutes, rotating after 10 minutes.  Then reduce the oven temperature to 350°F, and continue baking for 30-45 minutes.  Pie is done when the filling has puffed slightly around the edges and the very center has a slight jiggle.  Don't be afraid of a little bit of jiggle, remember when it cools, it will firm up.  Do not leave the pie in the oven until it's completely solid, it will be too dry and will crack.  

4. Allow pie to cool for at least one hour at room temperature then move to the fridge for at least 3 hours.  Serve with whipped cream or ice cream.  

The Result: A traditional filling with an alternative crust.  It's not overly sweet, so it pairs well with sweetened whipped cream.  I find some people (e.g., my husband) crave the classics on Thanksgiving, so there are no frills here.  If you are looking for interesting garnishes try chocolate ganache sauce, finely minced candied ginger, toasted coconut (especially if you used coconut milk instead of cream) or toasted and chopped pecans.  Enjoy!

Don't forget, next time you need a tart or pie, you are all set with those two crusts in reserve.  Definitely something to be thankful for.  Happy Thanksgiving!

Holding on to Summer

I love fruit.  I was lucky enough to grow up with several fruit trees in my backyard (apple, asian pear, cherry, and nectarine), and eating fruit was a great way to legitimize sugar consumption as a kid.  Now if I have to choose between a fruit-based dessert, and a chocolate one, I will almost always select the former.  I know not everyone is on the same page, like my husband for example, but I think even chocoholics should change their tune during the summer months.  How can you neglect a sweet, sun-kissed peach?  C'mon people!

Although I am a strong advocate for fruit desserts, I know some shy away from them because they can be disappointingly sweet, with unvarying texture.  To tempt even the devoted cacao lover, a fruit dessert should be well-balanced, just like good chocolate is.  When making fruit desserts, it's often a good practice to find your fruit before you pick a vessel to showcase it.  Choose the best fruit, with the most vibrant color, and a good balance between sweet and tart.  Most of us are aware of ways to "fix" imperfect fruit with lemon juice, sugar, vanilla, or salt, but no matter what you do, there is no true magic wand.  Follow your nose.  A pleasant aroma will usually guide you to good flavor.

Now that I no longer have the luxury of the long growing seasons of California, I must take advantage of what I can, when I can.  So luckily, I found overripe, local, yellow nectarines, that would be perfect for jam. 

I let my taste buds guide me, but here's a loose recipe.  The pectin is optional, but useful if you want a thicker jam.

Nectarine Jam:
7-8 large nectarines, peeled, cut into 1-2 inch pieces
~1/2 c sugar, depends on sweetness of fruit
1/2 t pectin (optional)

Basic jam method:
1) Add cut up fruit to pot
2) Add sugar, let macerate until fruit releases some juice
3) Cook on med-low heat, stirring occasionally.  You can use a wooden spoon or a potato masher to further break up the fruit pieces.  A nice, low simmer with small bubbles, is a good way to go.  The thicker it gets, the more carefully you have to watch it, so it doesn't burn.  
4) Cook until desired consistency, remembering that as it cools it will get thicker
5) If you want to add pectin, sprinkle it in while stirring, and let it bubble for 5 more minutes.  
6) Take off the heat and cool.

My fruit was very soft, so it released juices quickly.  If yours
isn't as ripe, let it macerate overnight in the fridge.

Jam is a great thing to have on the stove while accomplishing
other kitchen tasks.  Every once in while, give it a stir.  Once you
can feel the wooden spoon sticking on the bottom when you stir,
keep a close watch.

Jams are great served with cheese, drizzled over vanilla ice cream, or stirred into plain yogurt.  You can also freeze it, and save it for some desperately needed summertime in the middle of January.  This particular batch was destined for nectarine-cornmeal hand pies.  

The recipe for cornmeal pâte brisée (literally broken dough in french, AKA pie crust) is from one of my favorite baking books: Martha Stewart's Baking Handbook.This recipe substitutes cornmeal for a portion of the flour in a traditional pâte brisée recipe.  Substituting cornmeal, or even ground nuts or whole wheat flour in a recipe, provides a coarse texture and nuttiness that contrasts sweet, tart, and smooth-textured fruits.

The Recipe: Cornmeal pâte brisée (enough for 2 x 9-inch pie crusts or 20 hand pies) adapted from Martha Stewart's Baking Handbook:

2 c AP flour (270g)
1/2 c cornmeal (60g)
1 t salt
1 t sugar
1 c butter
1/4-1/2 c ice water

Tweaks: Maybe an extra 1/4 t salt, your choice.

Method:  
1) Mix dry ingredients in bowl
2) Cut in cold butter using hands, knives, mixer or food processor.  Stop when largest pieces of butter are pea-sized.  
3) Add cold water in slowly, mix until dough becomes a shaggy mess 
4) Bring dough together on plastic wrap.  Wrap and rest in fridge for about 20 minutes, until slightly firm.

No need to sift

Cold butter!  If in doubt, throw the whole bowl in the freezer
for 10 minutes.

Little chunks = flaky pastry

Shaggy is ideal.  Resist the temptation to knead or over mix.  

Use the plastic wrap to bring the dough together.
Let it rest in fridge.

At this point, dough can be rolled out and used to make galettes, like in the book, or in this case, hand pies.

Hand pie assembly:
1) Working with one half of the dough at a time, roll it out to ~1/8 inch
2) Cut into squares and place ~1T of jam in the middle
3) Fold squares over and crimp edges with the tines of a fork
4) If you are feeling fancy, brush with egg or cream, for extra color
5) Bake until edges are golden brown at 375°F, about 30 minutes.  Rotate after 15 min.

If the dough isn't sticking to itself because it's too dry, moisten the edges with a tiny amount of water.  Also, avoid the tendency to add too much jam.  Leave enough room to crimp the edge closed.

If the dough becomes difficult to work with stick it in the freezer
for a few minutes

Do not over fill!

And to think, I always wanted Pop-tarts as a kid...

The Result: Flaky and scrumptious.  I apparently lost a little focus while crimping the edges, so they popped open slightly, but fortunately the pectin-thickened jam didn't leak everywhere.  Well-executed pâte brisée is a close relative to puff pastry, and this application reminds me of more complicated breakfast pastries. 

The Verdict:  I scarfed one of these down by myself, and then quickly hurried over to a new friend's place before I ate them all, so I would definitely make them again.  These would be nice for a brunch potluck, or tucked into the lunch bag of someone special.  

If you don't have the time or energy to make the pie crust, I encourage you to at least try making a quick batch of jam.  It's not very complicated, but it's a great way to celebrate summer before all the stone fruit and berries disappear.  I know for some people it may not satiate the dire need for chocolate, but it's certainly a nice distraction.