The Revival of the Muffin: An Essay

The muffin has gone through an identity crisis.  As a little kid, I remember thinking about muffins in a very positive light.  Even if they didn't appear on your kitchen table, I bet you could've pictured them piled high in a woven basket, lined with patterned kitchen towel, studded generously with seasonal fruits.  They were a regular member of the breakfast and brunch archetype.  Who wouldn't want a fresh-from-the-oven small baked good, that boasted a combination of delicate sweetness, rusticity, nostalgia, and happiness?  Oh, how the muffin would eventually lose its way.

I can't tell you how many swim meets I saw those disgusting, gigantic, dense, warehouse store "muffins".  You know which ones I'm talking about.  They were about the size of your face, and they came in flavors like lemon poppyseed, chocolate, and banana nut.  Then coincidently, I remember hearing things like "muffins aren't good for you.  They have so much sugar and fat."  Well, that's because the commercial muffins around back then, were cake!  Not very good cake, but they were still cakes, not muffins.  Muffins are a quick bread, which traditionally means less fat and less sugar than cake (read more about the differences here).  I mean, I love cake, but wrapping it with a giant paper muffin wrapper and calling it breakfast doesn't mean you should eat a pound of it everyday.

If the late 90s ushered in the bastardization of the muffin, then the second stake in the muffin coffin (moffin?) was the similar-looking, but very distant cousin, the cupcake.  Without ranting for too long, I can at least acknowledge the majestic rise of the cupcake from elementary school birthday parties to tiered wedding displays.  Many thought: "Why would you ever want a muffin if you can have a cupcake?"  So many cake flavors, so many frostings, and so many combinations of the two.  The millennial expectation for a higher quality product, instant gratification, variety and indulgence, not just in food, but in everything, manifested itself perfectly in the cupcake.  Now that's a lot of pressure on one, tiny baked good.  Which explains why the cupcake supernova of the last decade inevitably collapsed into a black hole (just like frozen yogurt).  So, who should rise from this pile of metaphorical ashes and crumbs?  My nomination: the muffin.  

I'm not saying we should completely do away with cupcakes.  They are essentially a wonderful baked good, but perhaps a bit of withdrawal will help us appreciate them fully again.  I'm also not saying we should put the muffin on a pedestal, it's a muffin for crying out loud.  What I am saying, is that it's time you show the true muffin the respect it deserves.  If you need something easy, fast, portable, small, and customizable, then look no further.  It needs no special treatment or recognition, just a place at the table.

Cranberry Muffins

Note: This is an adaptation of Alton Brown's Old-School Muffin Recipe, from I'm Just Here for More Food

Ingredients:

Dry:

2 cups flour  (270g)

2 teaspoons baking powder

3/4 teaspoons baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

Wet:
1/2 cup of vegetable oil or melted butter (112g) [or a combination of the two]
3/4 cup sugar (150g) [go with 1/2 cup (100g) if using fruits that are sweet on their own]

2 eggs

3/4 cup plain yogurt, sour cream, or buttermilk (170g)  [I only had 1/2 cup of yogurt so I just topped it off with regular milk]

     

Mix-ins:

1 - 1 1/2 cups frozen or fresh cranberries (100-150g) [substitute other berries, sunflower seeds, chopped apple, etc.]

Tools: Large mixing bowl, medium mixing bowl, whisk, spatula, measuring cups or scale, measuring spoons, muffin tin

Directions:

0. Pre-heat oven to 350°F

1. Combine all dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl.  Whisk to combine.

2. Combine all wet ingredients in a medium mixing bowl.  Whisk to comine.

3. Pour wet ingredients into dry.  Using a spatula, gently mix batter until most of the flour is incorporated.  Do not over mix!  You still have to add the cranberries.

4. Add in the cranberries, mix just until they are distributed throughout the batter.

5. Spray muffin pan, or line with paper liners.  Portion muffin batter evenly.  The batter expands, but not as much as you'd think.  You can fill them almost all the way to the top.

6. Bake for 25-30 minutes, rotating after 10 minutes.  Muffins are done when the tops are lightly golden brown, and they spring back when touched.

7.  Allow them to cool by dislodging them from the pan.  Store in an airtight container at room temperature for 2-3 days.

The Verdict: A lovely, not-too-sweet and tart breakfast treat bursting with color.  I personally like less sweet breakfast items because then you have a good excuse for jam or lemon curd.  These muffins would also work well with diced apple or blueberries and peaches in summer (just reduce the sugar a bit).  You can even replace 1/2 of the flour with whole wheat for more texture.

Even if you don't get around to making a batch, I hope you see the muffin in a different light.  Enjoy!