Monday, December 23, 2013

A Little Spice is Nice

It's been a crazy week and I imagine it's been the same for pretty much everyone.  The holidays always feel rushed, but since Thanksgiving weekend spilled into December this year, I think we've reached a special level of chaos.  Throw in a little holiday travel gone wrong (thanks US Airways) and well, it's beginning to look a lot like Christmas.
Good times with red hots.
So, short and sweet is the name of the game today.  Without further ado...

Gingerbread Cookies & Royal Icing
Yield: 2-3 dozen cookies depending on size
Note: These are not designed to be soft and chewy, they are designed to be easy to roll and strong enough to package in bags as gifts without breaking.  See note at the end of the recipe if you want something softer.

Ingredients:
1{      1/2 cup butter (1 stick)
         3/4 cup brown sugar
         1/4 cup molasses

2{     1 egg, separated into yolk and white

3{      2 1/2 cup AP flour
         1 tablespoon ground ginger
         1 teaspoon soda
         1/2 salt 

4{     ~1 3/4 -2 1/4 cups powdered sugar, sifted

Tools: Large mixing bowl, medium mixing bowl, small mixing bowl, measuring cups and spoons, wooden spoon, spatula, baking sheet pans, sieve

Directions:
1. Combine butter, brown sugar, and molasses into large mixing bowl.  Mix with a wooden spoon until completely homogenous.
2. Add in yolk, mix until homogenous.  Place egg white in a small mixing bowl and set aside.
3. Combine flour, ginger, soda, and salt.  Mix to distribute ingredients (no need to sift).  Add dry ingredients to butter, sugar, and yolk mixture.  Mix until flour is incorporated.
It may seem a little dry, even crumbly, but don't worry!  Roll up your sleeves, and use
your hands to finish mixing and you'll notice the dough start to come together.
4.  Remove the dough from the bowl and wrap in plastic.  Chill in the fridge for at least 20 minutes.  This time in the fridge will help hydrate the dough and make it easier to work with.

5.  Remove the dough from the fridge, and working with 1/4 to 1/2 the dough at a time, roll it out to 3/8" thickness with plenty of flour.  You'll learn quickly that without the flour between every 3-4 passes it will get stuck.  It's also easier if you roll it out on parchment.
The dough will inevitably soften so you can return the dough at any time to the fridge
to make it easier to roll or to to make it easier to transfer any cut out cookies.
5.  Cut out shapes! 
6.  Place cookies on a parchment lined cookie sheet (it should fill about 3 pans).  Bake at 350°F for ~15-20 minutes.  Cookies are done when the edges are slightly darker than the rest of the cookie.



Note: This recipe is designed for a crunchy/crispy cookie that travels well, if you want a softer cookie, bake for a shorter time and roll to thicker thickness (1/4").

For Icing: 
1. Sift 2 cups of powdered sugar.  Then add 1 1/2 cups of powdered sugar, to the egg white and mix until smooth.  If you want to pipe royal icing onto the cookies, you'll want an icing that drizzles off of your whisk or spoon in a thin, slow stream.  If you want something more spreadable, add one tablespoon of powdered sugar at a time until you reach your desired consistency.

2.  Place into a piping bag or a zip-top bag if you want to pipe it.  If you aren't going to use it immediately, make sure it's in an airtight container in the fridge otherwise it will dry out quickly.
Tie off your pastry bag with plastic wrap to keep it from leaking.

Now, I know I'm going to get some comments about raw egg white.  It is generally accepted practice in bakeries across America to use raw egg white royal icing (culinary schools also teach this).  It is completely safe to eat once it is dry due to the unfriendly environment that all that sugar creates for any lingering bacteria (which is already a very unlikely occurrence in a fresh clean egg white).  If you just aren't in a place to accept that, then just place your decorated cookies into a 160°F oven for 15 minutes.  Just make sure that the decor you use can withstand this temperature.  Certain wax-based sprinkles or chocolate probably won't make it.  When in doubt just test a few pieces first to find out.




All right kiddos, go forth and bake.  Don't forget about Santa, he'll love these.



Thursday, December 12, 2013

Top 5 Must Have Items for the Baking Enthusiast

Better tools will help you turn out cookies faster and with more consistent and visually appealing results.


So, now that we have laid the baking equipment foundation, let's move on to the slightly more exciting stuff.  I'd say if you ever click on my blog posts than you probably have almost everything on the beginning baker list.  The items on this list are by no means essential, but they will definitely save you time and frustration when you work in the kitchen.  Which means you'll want to bake more often, and thus leading to a virtuous cycle of stress-relief and delicious eats.  What more can you ask for?

Just a note, this list is for the general baking enthusiast, who I define as someone who enjoys baking at least twice a month, and bakes items from across the entire pastry and baking spectrum.  Why those parameters?  If you don't have time to bake regularly, buying and storing equipment that you don't use will just get really annoying, and if you already specialize (cake decorating, candy making, etc.), then you probably have what you need already.  

1. Digital Food Scale

Why? This is by far one of the best baking investments you can make!  Armed with a volume to weights conversion table or a recipe already listed in weight measures (grams or ounces) you will make measuring so much easier, faster, and better.  How? Instead of using cups to measure everything separately you just place your bowl on the scale and pour.  Also, flour which is notoriously easy to mess up when measuring volumetrically, is a snap with a scale (most recipes assume a 125-135g per cup).  The scale is also good for sticky things like corn syrup and molasses, which you can measure directly into the bowl where they will be mixed, and then you won't spend time an energy scraping it out of the cup used to measure it (where you'll inevitably leave some behind).
My recommendation: A battery-operated scale (no plugs), with a large measuring platform and a readout display than can be pulled out (helps when weighing large mixing bowls and sheet pans)
Stay away from scales regularly priced less than $25 (to cheap to work well), or small measuring platforms (annoying).
Tips for maintaining your investment: Store your scale flat (do not lean it on it side) and for heaven's sake, do not pile stuff on top of it or drop stuff on it.
I own: OXO Good Grips 11-Pound Stainless Steel Food Scale  (pricey, but I've only replaced batteries twice in the last 5 years, plus I like the large capacity)
I'd buy: OXO Good Grips 5-Pound Food Scale (great deal! However, if you exclusively use heavy glass mixing bowls or make triple-size batches, the 5-pound capacity may not work for you)

2. Electric Hand Mixer or Stand Mixer (KitchenAid)

Why? Besides speed and efficiency, some things are very difficult (or completely impossible if you don't have the arm strength) to do by hand like meringues, sponge cake, and mousse.
Hand Mixer vs. Stand Mixer: If you have very little countertop space and are looking for the value option go for a hand mixer.  If you have countertop space to spare, or are in the market for a true baking investment (or have a wedding registry to fill), go for the stand mixer.
If you decide on a hand mixer it should be priced between $35 and $65, and have at least 3 speeds.
If you decide on a stand mixer it should be priced between $200 and $300 for a standard model (they go up to $600).  I also prefer the "bowl lift" rather than the "tilt" version.  If you are confused, you should do your homework outside of this summary blog post (feel free to email me).  A stand mixer, for most people, is the most expensive* small appliance they will purchase, and deserves some due diligence before purchase.
*Unless you have a husband who demands the best blender available on the consumer market.
I own: KitchenAid 5-Speed Ultra Power Hand Mixer (shop around on Amazon, some vendors offer different colors at different prices)
I also own: KitchenAid Pro 500 Series 10-Speed 5-Quart Stand Mixer (works for everything I've ever wanted to make at home)

3. Parchment paper

Why? I cannot stress this more: parchment paper makes EVERYTHING easier.  Line cookie sheets and cake pans for easy removal, cooling, and clean up.  Sift your dry ingredients directly on it and then funnel it into the work bowl.  Fold it into a cornet for decorating cookies or chocolates.  Wrap salted caramels.  There's a whole lot more to mention, maybe several blog posts more.  I'm telling you, it's magical stuff.
Here's the deal with parchment paper: If you've ever used a roll of parchment from the grocery store you know how annoying it is to cut and it never lies flat (so frustrating).  To avoid this issue, buy it in pre-cut sheets, because even though it gets shipped to you rolled up, the paper itself was actually manufactured as a flat sheet of paper, so when you unroll it will stay flat.
I own: Industrial full sheet flat parchment paper that I cut in half myself (I bought 1000 sheets from a restaurant supply store).
I'd buy: From me (shameless, I know)!  I have a ton, and I sell it for 20 sheets for $1 (and it's good enough to reuse at least once).  If you are local, just let me know and I'll package it up for you.  If I need to ship it, I can do 100 sheets for $15.  I've looked everywhere online and cannot find a decent retailer that I would consider buying from.

4. Thermometer

Why? If you ever want to get into making candy (caramels, candy corn), fresh cheese (ricotta, mozzarella), stirred custards (ice cream) or deep frying (donuts, churros) then you'll definitely need one of these.
My recommendation: A candy/deep fry thermometer that clips to the pot and has a range of 100°F-400°F.  I have also used digital probe thermometers in the past, but the clip-on style without batteries is more user friendly and the low tech approach makes it easy to see how fast the temperature is climbing (important if you are just starting out).
Stay away from anything regularly priced less than $9 (cheap), all glass versions (scary), any thermometers not meant for candy/deep frying (meat thermometers will not work, don't even try).
I'd buy: Polder Thermometer, Stainless Steel


5. Dough/Batter Scoop (Ice cream disher)

Why? This somewhat specialized tool for drop cookies, cupcakes, muffins, and ice cream, helps you portion the dough more evenly and makes your cookies more round.
My recommendation: A standard #40 or #50 scoop makes for 2.5-3" cookies.  Just a note, the bigger the number, the smaller the scoop.  I have several sizes, but you can also just use two full #50 scoops for muffins, rather than buying a larger scoop.
I'd buy: OXO Good Grips Medium or Small Cookie Scoop (if you like 3" cookies go with medium, if you like 2" cookies go with small)

Where to Shop:

Since most of these tools are more complex, with moving parts or precision calibration, I'd recommend a quality kitchen specialty store, a department store, or Amazon.  Whatever you do, make sure there is a good return policy in place, because if something is slightly off, most of these items are useless.

Also, there are clearly different variations of each tool, and I've tried to highlight the versions I think I most useful.  If you have any questions for what tools might work best for your situation, just ask!

*Disclosure of Material Connection with Amazon: Some of the links in the post above are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission. Regardless, I only recommend products I have personally used (or similar) and believe will add value.

Monday, December 9, 2013

Top 10 Essentials for the Beginning Baker

I've had quite a few people in my kitchen in the last few months and I get a lot of questions about the tools and equipment that I have.  So, to keep you from collecting a junk drawer of useless stuff, or from desperately wishing you had a certain tool mid-recipe, I thought I'd share some of my favorites.

This first list is geared toward the beginning baker, or anyone who is just starting to build the foundations of their kitchen.  I'll be including a few other lists later this week for baking enthusiasts who've been around the oven a bit, and then finally a list for the advanced baker who has it all (but could benefit from a few extras).  Send this to any potential gift givers or go ahead and get something pretty for yourself! Check out the "Where to Shop" section after the list.  Here we go...


1. Mixing Bowls

Why? Most recipes will go much more smoothly if you have at least 2 bowls.
My recommendation: 2-4 stainless steel bowls.  Easy to clean, lightweight and sturdy.  Note:  You'll see glass bowls all over my blog, but that's only for better lighting in my photos.
Stay away from bowls with a spout or handle (totally pointless), and anti-slip bowls with rubber on the bottom (more annoying than helpful).
I'd buy: Stainless steel bowls from Sur La Table in at least the 3.5 and 4.5 qt sizes

2. Measuring Cups & Measuring Spoons

Why? If you want your baked goodies to consistently turn out well, measuring correctly with the right tool is paramount.  Dry measuring cups come in different sizes so the ingredients can be leveled off correctly.  Liquid measuring cups allow you to fill it to the correct measurement marker and then not spill it everywhere.
My recommendation: Plastic liquid and dry measuring cups (lightweight), and stainless steel measuring spoons (sturdy).
Stay away from adjustable spoons or cups, double-ended spoons (nice ideas in theory, but more annoying than useful), and dry measuring cups do not need a spout!
I own:
Dry: KitchenAid Classic Measuring Cup Set
Liquid: OXO Good Grips Angled Measuring Cup (2-cup)
Spoons: Stainless Steel Measuring Spoons from Sur La Table (a little pricey)
I'd buy:
Thunder Group Stainless Steel Measuring Spoons(reasonable price)

3. Half Sheet Baking Pans

Why? Rimmed, half sheet (13"x18") baking pans keep cookies (or roasted veggies) from sliding off the edge are perfect for layer cakes.  Plus they fit in all ovens.
My recommendation: 2-3 aluminum or stainless steel pans (half sheet size).
Stay away from anything textured (useless), non-stick (unnecessary), rimless (not versatile or safe), or insulated (unnecessary, just rotate your pan)
I own (and absolutely love): Nordic Ware Naturals Bakers Half Sheet

4. Silicone Spatula

Why? Versatile and effective mixing, scraping, and stirring tool.  Appropriate for high temperature situations on the stove.
My recommendation: Silicone head, wooden or plastic handle, both curved and straight sides.
Stay away from anything that isn't silicone, anything clear or white (not sturdy), anything too stiff.
I Own: Tovolo 12 Inch Silicone Spatula  (mine have wooden handles, and I bought them from Marshalls).


5. Whisk (aka Whip)

Why? Unfortunately not everything can be mixed with just a spatula.  Whipped cream, egg whites, and other liquid ingredients need a whisk to properly aerate or combine.  I have a few small whisks, but my go to is a single large 13"whisk.
My recommendation: 10-14" balloon-style whisk, with a sealed handle (easier to clean), and lots of thin, but strong wires (which are more effective at aerating).
Stay away from anything completed coated in silicone or nylon (not important), anything with really thick tines (too heavy and your arm will get tired fast), and anything too small (under 10 inches).
I'd buy: 
Winco Stainless Steel Piano Wire Whip, 12-Inch
or OXO Good Grips Balloon Whisk, 11-Inch

6. Rolling Pin

Why? Most beginning bakers will want this essential item for pie crusts and rolled cookies.
My recommendation: A wooden American (handles & ball bearings) or non-tapered French (one piece, solid wood) pin.  American is more traditional here, but French is easier to clean.  If you have doubts, go with the American.
Stay away from marble (heavy, expensive, unnecessary), fully tapered pins (useful but harder for beginners to use),
I own: A pin from Target.  Here's a similar one: Farberware Classic Wood Rolling Pin

7. Rasp-style Zester (aka Microplane)

Why? Perfect for zesting citrus, or grating fresh nutmeg, ginger, chocolate, and hard cheeses.
My recommendation: Microplane brand is the gold standard.  There are several styles, but I like the ones with a rubber handle and no plastic.
Stay away from non-rasp-style zesters (difficult to use).
I own: Microplane 46720 Premium Zester/Grater


8. Fine Mesh Sieve

Why? A multi-use tool that allows you to sift dry ingredients, strain custards, and gently wash delicate berries or herbs.
My recommendation: A sieve that's at least 6-8" in diameter, with fine mesh.
Stay away from mechanical sifters.  Bulky, hard to clean, and can only sift, as opposed to strain.
I own an older version of the OXO Good Grips 8-Inch Double Rod Strainer (very, very good quality, but a little pricey at ~$20)
I'd also buy: Winco 8" Single Fine Mesh Strainer (a very reasonable price)

 9. Bowl Scraper

Why? This is an awesome multi-purpose tool that helps you scrape batters and doughs out of bowls and helps you to safely and quickly and portion doughs.  It's also nice for scooping finely chopped veggies or herbs off your cutting board.
My recommendation: Plastic with a straight cutting edge and a rounded scraping edge.
Stay away from anything super stiff (won't be flexible enough to scrape out a bowl), and anything that costs more than $5 (it's a piece of flat plastic!)
I own the Ateco Bowl Scraper.  You can find it in stores at Sur La Table for $3.

10. Oven Mitts

Why? Relying on kitchen towels isn't always the safest way to remove hot items from the oven.
My recommendation: Two padded mitts, that cover most of the forearm, with a loop for hanging.
Stay away from silicone or thin pot holder-style (most people burn their wrists and arms), and the giant ones used for grilling outside labeled "flame retardant" (too big for regular use).
I own a pair from Target.  I've seen some very cute ones from Sur La Table, but I couldn't find a decent pair on Amazon that I liked.

Where to Shop:

You can find many of these items at discounted home goods stores like Marshalls for very reasonable prices.  For example, I like to buy my spatulas there for $2.  I've also found nice measuring cups and spoons, just remember that everything they sell is not necessarily useful (strawberry corer?).  If you don't have access to discount stores, Target and Macy's have great kitchen basics at reasonable prices.

I own many items from specialty kitchen stores like Sur La Table and Williams-Sonoma.  However, watch out for crazy prices.  I personally would not buy any small kitchen tool for more than $20 at one of these place unless 1) you have a gift card, or 2) you are in rush.  Same warning as above: that 3-in-one avocado tool is just as useless at these stores and more expensive.

Some of the items I own are no longer available, so I've included links to items that I researched as if I were buying them myself.  This means I've balanced perceived quality from reviews, cost and personal experience with similar items.  Keep personal preferences in mind!  For example, if a particular person has a retro-style kitchen, they may prefer colored glass bowls and brightly colored tools, others only like black and stainless steel.  I also could write an entire blog post on each of these items, but who has time for that!  My guidelines + your own good judgement = success.

So, if you have everything already on this list, then good for you.  You clearly have set yourself up for baking success.  Stay tuned for the next list coming later this week!

*Disclosure of Material Connection with Amazon: Some of the links in the post above are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission. Regardless, I only recommend products I have personally used (or similar) and believe will add value.

Thursday, December 5, 2013

The Revival of the Muffin: An Essay

The muffin has gone through an identity crisis.  As a little kid, I remember thinking about muffins in a very positive light.  Even if they didn't appear on your kitchen table, I bet you could've pictured them piled high in a woven basket, lined with patterned kitchen towel, studded generously with seasonal fruits.  They were a regular member of the breakfast and brunch archetype.  Who wouldn't want a fresh-from-the-oven small baked good, that boasted a combination of delicate sweetness, rusticity, nostalgia, and happiness?  Oh, how the muffin would eventually lose its way.

I can't tell you how many swim meets I saw those disgusting, gigantic, dense, warehouse store "muffins".  You know which ones I'm talking about.  They were about the size of your face, and they came in flavors like lemon poppyseed, chocolate, and banana nut.  Then coincidently, I remember hearing things like "muffins aren't good for you.  They have so much sugar and fat."  Well, that's because the commercial muffins around back then, were cake!  Not very good cake, but they were still cakes, not muffins.  Muffins are a quick bread, which traditionally means less fat and less sugar than cake (read more about the differences here).  I mean, I love cake, but wrapping it with a giant paper muffin wrapper and calling it breakfast doesn't mean you should eat a pound of it everyday.

If the late 90s ushered in the bastardization of the muffin, then the second stake in the muffin coffin (moffin?) was the similar-looking, but very distant cousin, the cupcake.  Without ranting for too long, I can at least acknowledge the majestic rise of the cupcake from elementary school birthday parties to tiered wedding displays.  Many thought: "Why would you ever want a muffin if you can have a cupcake?"  So many cake flavors, so many frostings, and so many combinations of the two.  The millennial expectation for a higher quality product, instant gratification, variety and indulgence, not just in food, but in everything, manifested itself perfectly in the cupcake.  Now that's a lot of pressure on one, tiny baked good.  Which explains why the cupcake supernova of the last decade inevitably collapsed into a black hole (just like frozen yogurt).  So, who should rise from this pile of metaphorical ashes and crumbs?  My nomination: the muffin.  

I'm not saying we should completely do away with cupcakes.  They are essentially a wonderful baked good, but perhaps a bit of withdrawal will help us appreciate them fully again.  I'm also not saying we should put the muffin on a pedestal, it's a muffin for crying out loud.  What I am saying, is that it's time you show the true muffin the respect it deserves.  If you need something easy, fast, portable, small, and customizable, then look no further.  It needs no special treatment or recognition, just a place at the table.


Cranberry Muffins
Note: This is an adaptation of Alton Brown's Old-School Muffin Recipe, from I'm Just Here for More Food


Ingredients:
Dry:
2 cups flour  (270g)
2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoons baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt

Wet:
1/2 cup of vegetable oil or melted butter (112g) [or a combination of the two]
3/4 cup sugar (150g) [go with 1/2 cup (100g) if using fruits that are sweet on their own]
2 eggs
3/4 cup plain yogurt, sour cream, or buttermilk (170g)  [I only had 1/2 cup of yogurt so I just topped it off with regular milk]
     
Mix-ins:
1 - 1 1/2 cups frozen or fresh cranberries (100-150g) [substitute other berries, sunflower seeds, chopped apple, etc.]

Tools: Large mixing bowl, medium mixing bowl, whisk, spatula, measuring cups or scale, measuring spoons, muffin tin

Directions:
0. Pre-heat oven to 350°F
1. Combine all dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl.  Whisk to combine.
2. Combine all wet ingredients in a medium mixing bowl.  Whisk to comine.
3. Pour wet ingredients into dry.  Using a spatula, gently mix batter until most of the flour is incorporated.  Do not over mix!  You still have to add the cranberries.

4. Add in the cranberries, mix just until they are distributed throughout the batter.
5. Spray muffin pan, or line with paper liners.  Portion muffin batter evenly.  The batter expands, but not as much as you'd think.  You can fill them almost all the way to the top.
6. Bake for 25-30 minutes, rotating after 10 minutes.  Muffins are done when the tops are lightly golden brown, and they spring back when touched.
7.  Allow them to cool by dislodging them from the pan.  Store in an airtight container at room temperature for 2-3 days.

The Verdict: A lovely, not-too-sweet and tart breakfast treat bursting with color.  I personally like less sweet breakfast items because then you have a good excuse for jam or lemon curd.  These muffins would also work well with diced apple or blueberries and peaches in summer (just reduce the sugar a bit).  You can even replace 1/2 of the flour with whole wheat for more texture.

Even if you don't get around to making a batch, I hope you see the muffin in a different light.  Enjoy!